We all know you can hold a tape measure and yes, and you can read the numbers off it. Every one does it differently and these different methods do not always capture the relevant information required by the designer or fitter. In the end they come round to the house to do the job themselves. If you are not confident about what is required get a friend or relative to help you. In fact, you will probably need someone helping you anyway to hold the other end of the tape. This should ensure a reasonably accurate set of measurements. Here are the step-by-step guide for drawing and measuring your kitchen. If you are using these measurements to provide a rough layout of your new kitchen then accuracy within 5mm to 10mm should be sufficient. However, if these plans are to be used as final fitting plans then please measure twice and get someone to check them.
Step by Step Guide
1. Draw a rough outline of your kitchen noting approximately where the windows and doors are. Also note which ways the doors swing into the room.
2. Draw in any obstructions, such as radiators, pipes, sink plumbing, etc., that you either cannot move or do not want to move.
3. If you are right handed, start from an entrance door and measure round the room in a clock-wise direction (anti-clock-wise if you are left handed).
4. Measure all the distances between wall corners and edges of door and window trims. (The door and window trims are considered part of the door or window).
5. If this is to be an accurate representat ion, repeat the above guides at floor level, at worktop level, and at wall unit level. Why? It’s a self check on all. your measurements for one and it also checks for walls that may be bowed. It’s good to know this before the fitter tells you and wants to charge you for re-plastering the wall to make it level.
6. Measure the ceiling height on each wall and in the centre of the room. Ceiling heights can often vary, even in the best built houses.
7. Measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of each window and also measure the overall window height (including the sill).
8. It is good practice to number each wall, window, and door on your plan. This helps when you are referring to specific areas of the room later.
9. Next to each wall, write the name of the adjacent room. If the wall is an “outside wall” write “exterior wall.”
10. Measure any obstructions such as radiators, pipes, etc. that you either cannot, or do not, want moved. If the obstruction is close to a wall, measure out from the wall to the edge of the obstruction. Also, measure from the second closest
wall to the edge of the obstruction. If the obstruction does not span the full height of the room, measure the height of the obstruction.
11. Check your measurements. If your room is rectangular add up the measurements of the parallel walls and make sure they match or are at least very close; they should be within 5mm to 15mm of each other.
12. CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS AGAIN.